Two humbuckers, three-way toggle, push/pull split volume and two tones

Parts and values

“Example part” means any part with the same value and lugs will do; the source does not name a brand. “Generic” stands in for an unspecified pickup: check your own pickup's lead colours before you solder.

Specific to this wiring

• The source says the push/pull split switch splits both pickups.
• Each pickup's red and white leads are soldered together onto one middle lug of the switch, not taped off: bridge on the left column, neck on the right.
• The two bottom switch lugs (nearest the pot) are jumpered together and wired to the volume casing; the top row stays empty.
• Each pickup's black lead goes to the outer lug of its own tone pot, and that lug continues to the toggle.
• The neck green and bare, the toggle's frame lug and the bridge ground wire end on the neck tone casing; the bridge green and bare end on the volume casing; the jack sleeve ends on the bridge tone casing.
• The three pot casings are linked: neck tone to volume, volume to bridge tone.
• The toggle tags are not labelled in the source, so they are mapped by what each does.

Connections

In soldering order: grounds first, then the switch, the pickups and the signal path. Choose Show to highlight a connection in the drawing.

What each position does

Checked with the Tinkercaster wiring engine against the switching the source describes.

• Hum cancelling and phase describe the generic pickup models, not a measurement of any specific Seymour Duncan model.
• Pickup resistance is not specified, so no numeric meter readings are given.
• The source does not say which knob position splits; this follows the usual push/pull behaviour (pulled joins the middle lugs to the lugs nearest the pot).
• The simulator's position summary names one tone control only; each tone sits on its own pickup's lead ahead of the toggle, so in the middle position both tones act on the combined signal.

Before you solder

• Identify every lead on your pickups against the source's colours.
• The source says the push/pull split switch splits both pickups.
• Each pickup's red and white leads are soldered together onto one middle lug of the switch, not taped off: bridge on the left column, neck on the right.
• The two bottom switch lugs (nearest the pot) are jumpered together and wired to the volume casing; the top row stays empty.
• Each pickup's black lead goes to the outer lug of its own tone pot, and that lug continues to the toggle.
• The neck green and bare, the toggle's frame lug and the bridge ground wire end on the neck tone casing; the bridge green and bare end on the volume casing; the jack sleeve ends on the bridge tone casing.
• The three pot casings are linked: neck tone to volume, volume to bridge tone.
• The toggle tags are not labelled in the source, so they are mapped by what each does.
• Use a small amount of solder, heat both surfaces, and hold the joint still as it cools. Lead-free solder may have a matte finish.

Ticks are kept in this browser only, as a reminder. They are not a check of your joints. New to soldering? Read the soldering cheat sheet.

Check before plugging in

• Knob down: in each toggle position the meter across the jack reads the selected humbucker, or both in parallel in the middle.
• Knob up: each reading drops to roughly one coil's resistance.
• With the volume at zero, tip and sleeve should read as a short in every position.

Measure across the output jack with a multimeter on its resistance range. No exact readings are given where the source does not specify the pickups.