Two humbuckers with a three-way blade, a push/pull split volume and two tones

Parts and values

“Example part” means any part with the same value and lugs will do; the source does not name a brand. “Generic” stands in for an unspecified pickup: check your own pickup's lead colours before you solder.

Specific to this wiring

• The source titles the volume's push/pull as a coil split switch that splits both pickups.
• Each pickup's red and white leads are soldered together onto a middle lug of the push/pull switch: bridge on the left, neck on the right.
• The two push/pull lugs nearest the pot are jumpered together and wired to the volume casing; the two lugs furthest from the pot stay empty.
• Each pickup's black lead goes to a lug on its own tone pot, and that lug runs on to a common lug on the blade, so each tone only works on its own pickup.
• Each .047 cap sits between its tone's middle lug and that tone's casing.
• Three short jumpers join four blade lugs into one output that loops round to the volume's input lug.
• The neck green and bare end on the neck tone casing; the bridge green and bare end on the volume casing.
• The bridge ground wire ends on the neck tone casing; the jack sleeve ends on the bridge tone casing.
• Solder = location for ground (earth) connections.
• The source does not number the blade positions; the lugs are mapped by what they do (neck, both, bridge).

Connections

In soldering order: grounds first, then the switch, the pickups and the signal path.

What each position does

Checked with the Tinkercaster wiring engine against the switching the source describes.

• Hum cancelling and phase describe the generic pickup models, not a measurement of any specific Seymour Duncan model.
• Pickup resistance is not specified, so no numeric meter readings are given.
• The source does not say which knob position splits; this follows the usual push/pull behaviour (pulled joins the middle lugs to the lugs nearest the pot).
• The simulator reports one tone control per position; the second tone is wired the same way on the other pickup.

Before you solder

• Identify every lead on your pickups against the source's colours.
• The source titles the volume's push/pull as a coil split switch that splits both pickups.
• Each pickup's red and white leads are soldered together onto a middle lug of the push/pull switch: bridge on the left, neck on the right.
• The two push/pull lugs nearest the pot are jumpered together and wired to the volume casing; the two lugs furthest from the pot stay empty.
• Each pickup's black lead goes to a lug on its own tone pot, and that lug runs on to a common lug on the blade, so each tone only works on its own pickup.
• Each .047 cap sits between its tone's middle lug and that tone's casing.
• Three short jumpers join four blade lugs into one output that loops round to the volume's input lug.
• The neck green and bare end on the neck tone casing; the bridge green and bare end on the volume casing.
• The bridge ground wire ends on the neck tone casing; the jack sleeve ends on the bridge tone casing.
• Solder = location for ground (earth) connections.
• The source does not number the blade positions; the lugs are mapped by what they do (neck, both, bridge).
• Use a small amount of solder, heat both surfaces, and hold the joint still as it cools. Lead-free solder may have a matte finish.

Ticks are kept in this browser only, as a reminder. They are not a check of your joints. New to soldering? Read the soldering cheat sheet.

Check before plugging in

• Knob down: in each blade position the meter across the jack reads the selected humbucker, or both in parallel in the middle.
• Knob up: each reading drops to roughly one coil's resistance.
• Each tone only loads its own pickup's lead.
• With the volume at zero, tip and sleeve should read as a short in every position.

Measure across the output jack with a multimeter on its resistance range. No exact readings are given where the source does not specify the pickups.