Two humbuckers with a three-way blade, two volumes and a push/pull split tone

Parts and values

“Example part” means any part with the same value and lugs will do; the source does not name a brand. “Generic” stands in for an unspecified pickup: check your own pickup's lead colours before you solder.

Specific to this wiring

• The source says the tone's push/pull split switch splits both pickups.
• Each pickup's red and white leads are soldered together onto one middle lug of the tone's switch, not taped off: bridge on the left column, neck on the right.
• The two switch lugs in the row nearest the pot are jumpered together and wired to the tone casing; the row furthest from the pot stays empty.
• Each volume's middle lug feeds a common lug on the blade; three short jumpers join four other lugs into one output that runs to the jack tip.
• The master tone takes its signal from the jack tip, after the blade.
• The bridge ground wire ends on the neck volume casing; the bridge volume casing, neck volume casing and tone casing are chained together, and the jack sleeve ends on the tone casing.
• Solder = location for ground (earth) connections.
• The source does not number the blade positions or its lugs; the lugs are mapped by what they do (neck, both, bridge).

Connections

In soldering order: grounds first, then the switch, the pickups and the signal path. Choose Show to highlight a connection in the drawing.

What each position does

Checked with the Tinkercaster wiring engine against the switching the source describes.

• Hum cancelling and phase describe the generic pickup models, not a measurement of any specific Seymour Duncan model.
• Pickup resistance is not specified, so no numeric meter readings are given.
• The source does not say which knob position splits; this follows the usual push/pull behaviour (pulled joins the middle lugs to the lugs nearest the pot).

Before you solder

• Identify every lead on your pickups against the source's colours.
• The source says the tone's push/pull split switch splits both pickups.
• Each pickup's red and white leads are soldered together onto one middle lug of the tone's switch, not taped off: bridge on the left column, neck on the right.
• The two switch lugs in the row nearest the pot are jumpered together and wired to the tone casing; the row furthest from the pot stays empty.
• Each volume's middle lug feeds a common lug on the blade; three short jumpers join four other lugs into one output that runs to the jack tip.
• The master tone takes its signal from the jack tip, after the blade.
• The bridge ground wire ends on the neck volume casing; the bridge volume casing, neck volume casing and tone casing are chained together, and the jack sleeve ends on the tone casing.
• Solder = location for ground (earth) connections.
• The source does not number the blade positions or its lugs; the lugs are mapped by what they do (neck, both, bridge).
• Use a small amount of solder, heat both surfaces, and hold the joint still as it cools. Lead-free solder may have a matte finish.

Ticks are kept in this browser only, as a reminder. They are not a check of your joints. New to soldering? Read the soldering cheat sheet.

Check before plugging in

• Tone knob down: in each blade position the meter across the jack reads the selected humbucker, or both in parallel in the middle.
• Tone knob up: each reading drops to roughly one coil's resistance.
• With a volume at zero, its pickup's black lead reads as a short to ground.

Measure across the output jack with a multimeter on its resistance range. No exact readings are given where the source does not specify the pickups.